Part 1:
Bob sat us all down and laid out about
half-a-dozen brochures on the table.
“I will decide where we go but I want
your input.” Bob stated with his usual warm grin flying wide below
his trademark mustache.
The six of us began perusing the
literature. We were beckoned to cycle through the Loire Valley of
France, trek the wilderness of Iceland, river cruise through southern
France, tour the mountain villages of Burma/Myanmar, or bike the
Dalmatian Coast of Croatia.
Bob started explaining our options. In
true Petran form, Bob planned to celebrate retirement by taking his
family on vacation. This time I will be along for the ride.
As Bob, Ruth, Russell, Christina,
Amanda, and I sat around the table on the eve of Thanksgiving, 2013,
it was evident that Bob had thought long about this moment and had
researched his presentation thoroughly. After about two minutes it
was painfully obvious that his choice had already been made. As Bob
continued his presentation, I whispered to Amanda:
“We're going to Croatia.”
Part 2
I opened the door to our top floor
apartment overlooking the harbor of the ancient walled city of
Trogir. I wheeled our suitcases out of the apartment. I could hear
footsteps rumbling toward me from the four flights below. They
sounded fast and deliberate as the echo bounced off the tiled walls
of the stairwell.
“Are you Leighton?” An enthusiastic
voice blurted out as we met each other on the landing.
I was unable to answer immediately. I
needed a moment to assess the ball of energy smiling at me in the
doorway.
“Yes, and this is Amanda.”
Just then the adjacent door opened,
Russell, my brother-in-law, mimicked my look of excitement and
surprise as Marko looked to him, turned back to me, tilted to Amanda,
and stated with nearly unbelievable ardor:
“Alright! Young people on my tour!”
He reached out for a highfiveshake,
something he does often, introduced himself as our guide for the next
seven days, grabbed our huge bags, one in each hand, and ran down the
stairs.
This was going to be fun.
Part 3
Within a few hours, an intimate group
of curious, slightly concerned, and very excited tourists were
sitting on the upper deck of the Jadrolinja (Yadrolinya) ferry
destined for the Island of Brač
(Brach) about ten miles off the coast of mainland Croatia in the
Adriatic Sea.
Our
tour would be led by Marko, possibly the most enthusiastic man in all
of Croatia, and Vanja (Vanya), who's enthusiasm was high, if not
slightly more subtle than Marko's. Both were young, both were fun,
and both, despite their eight years working for Vermont Bicycle Tours
(VBT), were very happy to be there.
By
the afternoon we were fine-tuning the seats, pedals, handlebars, and
mirrors on our Fuji road bikes in the parking lot of our hotel in the
sleepy town of Postira. In Brač
the roads are smooth, the scenery, bucolic, and the mountains steep.
The
next morning seventeen Americans, aged 29-67, took to those mountains
on our new aluminum steeds. We rode 33 of some of the most difficult
miles I have ever logged on a bicycle. I expected hills, but I didn't
expect them to be the focal point of this tour. Game on!
Part 4
We cycled about 140 miles over five
days on Brač and its neighboring
island Hvar. Sometimes we took a van to the top and glided down
incredible two lane coastal highways. Other times we tranquilly
followed the winding coast line, stopping frequently for a refreshing
dip in the cool clear sea. Most of the time, it seemed, we rode up
incredible mountains, only to be rapidly whisked back down to the
coastline by way of some thoroughly fast and fun switchbacks.
Cycling was the focal point of our days. We rode as individuals, as a
family, and as a large group of happy Americans.
Each morning began with an 8:30
briefing of the day's rides and options. Our detailed route
instructions rested in a waterproof sleeve on our handlebars like,
ensuring that we knew to take a sharp right at the yellow house at
34.6 km to begin a steep descent, or to not miss the beautiful
swimming spot at 48.1 km on our left.
The van supported us the whole way.
Some chose to jump inside for the steep sections. Others chose to
ride the entire time. It didn't matter how you travelled, the journey
was incredible. Our meals were never dull, the conversation never
lulled, and our guides' energy never faltered.
Amanda wowed everyone with her 6-month
pregnant self. Bob inspired with his dedication to make it up every
hill. Ruth surprised herself with her ability to tackle some truly
difficult mountain climbs. We were in bed most nights by 10 PM and
ready to ride the next morning.
It was a wonderful way to vacation in
the magical Dalmatian Coast of Croatia. Thanks for the memories Bob
and Ruth, and thanks for the ride.
